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etriebe
Starting Member
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 Posted - August 27 2007 : 8:01:37 PM
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 Hello eveyone Im new to the sy/ty thing and new to the northwest. Just moved to vancouver, Wa. Well lets see here, I bought my truck in january 2007 and had nothing but trouble since. I bought it in Las Vegas and decided to drive it home. I made it to sacremento and rented a uhaul from there. Got it home and found out my #4 plug was melted. rebuilt the haeds and slapped them on. I drove it nine miles to work one day and grenaded the bottom end. Took engine to machine shop and was going to have it rebuilt got it there and ended up having a cracked block. rebuilt engine with some 8.5 to 1 srp's with 2.02, 1.60 valves, and some screw in main studs. stock cam and injectors. put it in had 10 in one chip but todd said it was busted so put in stock prom. I went and bought a 2 bar map and it now runs like crap. It will do ok in the garage until it gets to 160 degrees the starts to run horrible and not idle and when you try to give it gas the thing starts to backfire. hard to restart. I tried to set my timing at 0 with the brown wire unplugged but it wont run below 3 degrees and seems to like 16-18 degrees. pulled valve covers and checked valve timing seem to be dead on. also did a valve adjust just in case. my interragator on my scanner is running at 220 but the block learn is staying at 128. replaced o2 sensor and still nothing. replaced ecm and prom just in case because my 10 in 1 was fried. I can take my fuel pressure reg all the way down and can get my int to be about 130 still likes the 16-18 degrees though. What am i missing please help! P.s. checked my exhaust and it isn't clogged.
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Edited by - etriebe on August 27 2007 9:29:42 PM
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Country: USA
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Roland
New Member
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 Posted - August 28 2007 : 07:34:42 AM
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Hello Elliot;
Got 'ur voice mail last nite, but too late (for me) to call.
How do you know that 160* is when it starts running badly? (dash gauge, scan tool, what)
Runs poorly with the stock eprom (chip) and a 2 bar map sensor in place? (don't mix 2 bar chip with 3 bar map, or vise versa)
If you fried a chip, you may have fried a ECM also. Do you know any local SyTy'rs down there that can lend you a spare ECM to trial?
If chip, map sensor and ECU are correct and working (not yet verified) the timing issue could be due to the outer ring on the balancer has moved and hence the timing marks are off. Once you get to this point, time it where the motor likes it, irregardless of what the timing light says.
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Roland
Issaquah WA
http://www.netsnapshot.com/pcw/b?KEY=9&ACCOUNT=2412 |
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etriebe
Starting Member
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Posted - August 28 2007 : 11:26:13 AM
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I have a matco 4000e I put a new ecm out of an 89 grand am but i found out that there were 2 different 2.3 liters and may have gotten the wrong one. (vin A or D. I need a D). I'm gonna go back to portland and check. also i was wondering what my map voltage should be when the key is on engine off. I have 2.31 volts. also when i rebuilt the engine i got a new balancer for it and the marks seem to be right on.
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Roland
New Member
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Posted - August 28 2007 : 2:00:21 PM
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I assume the 4000e is a scan tool, good.
If no luck with ECM, I have a spare I could lend to you for trial, but want it back. We could ship it each way if needed.
My scan tool (diacom) doesn't show map voltage, just pressure... 16hg, key on no start. I probed with meter, 2.48 volts. I live atop a hill, about 900 elevation. Low alttiude=high pressure=high voltage. Unless you live at a higher altitude, your voltage is slightly low. BOOK says apply 34kpa (10 inches Hg) and readings 1.2-2.3 LESS. Voltage change should be instantaneous. Slow change indicates faulty sensor.
Timing can be done at idle, connector connected and adjust to 24* advance.... engine warmed. (my stock Ty is 24.6 at warm idle)
Check TPS as it will really screw things up if it goes bad.... check slowly for irratic spots.
What is fuel pressure?
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Roland
Issaquah WA
http://www.netsnapshot.com/pcw/b?KEY=9&ACCOUNT=2412 |
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etriebe
Starting Member
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Posted - August 28 2007 : 10:23:39 PM
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Went and got a new ecm from GMPARTSGUY and pretty much runs the same. When my fuel pressure is 35 psi at idle my int is still really high so if i crank up the pressure (55+ psi) int goes down alot to about 140. put timing at 24* when warm with est plugged in idles fine. I think i need new plug wires any suggestions on where to get some good ones. I have headers on it so i need some good heat protection. Misses pretty good under a light load like just pulling it into gear. Thanks on the offer on an Ecm but I figured i needed one anyway. Tps looks ok .47V at idle 4.7V Wot sweeps good no sticky spots
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Edited by - etriebe on August 28 2007 10:25:32 PM |
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Country: USA
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Roland
New Member
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Posted - August 29 2007 : 07:05:44 AM
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I like the Taylor thundervolt 50's.... with the lil silver slide on covers, universal cut yourself v8 kit. They hold up well to the header heat... MSD's just crumble in 'ur hand. Also gives you two spares....
Also check cap/rotor. If you have aftermarket ignition (crane/msd) it really corrodes up the insides. I have to clean mine every couple months.
And check EGR system.... If a slight leak at idle, it will hose up fueling. I had to replace valve and electronic control on my Ty to get fueling somewhat normal.
Sounds like progress is being made, and you know what your doing. Let us know when 'ur boost launching thru Vancouver... =) luck
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Roland
Issaquah WA
http://www.netsnapshot.com/pcw/b?KEY=9&ACCOUNT=2412 |
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